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Saturday, March 31, 2012

Ulu Semangkok, itching legs.

                                                          At the top of the first peak.


It's been two weeks since my trip to Gunung Rajah. Although the knees still pains when I wake up in the mornings, I felt like going into the mountains again. A check with the KL HIking website didn't help either because there's only the Gunung Nuang trip. Being a slow trekker and compounded by the time frame, it's not my cup of tea.

Just as I was pondering, I got a call from Chin and he was asking if I have any plans for the Saturday. It just hit me on the instant! "Yes", I replied. I am hiking Gunung Ulu Semangkok near Frasier's Hill. He said he will join in together with his friends. " OK, good", I said. Now I have a hike coming and the venue was something that I have always wanted to try. Somewhere not many hikers go.

One Friday while browsing through Evergreen Adventures I met Bella and I told her of the trip. She was interested. I said I will pick her up Saturday morning. Our appointed time was 8.00am at the foothills of Frasier's Hill. When I was in KKB for breakfast, I got a call from Chin saying he was a bit late and he is in KKB. I told him I was there too and so we met for breakfast at the Hainanese coffeeshop.

                                                      Our meeting point 

During breakfast we decided to go in Chin's car so off we went after breakfast, all five of us. we reach the old colonial rest house after 45 minutes of twisting and turning roads. Bella almost barf because of the high center of gravity of Chin's 4WD. Maybe she needs getting used to. LOL!

We park at the dilapidated car park just below the colonial building and then off to the trail head. None of us has tried this trail but a check through blogs and 'youtube', I knew the trail head was a slight slope just beside the road. we located the slope and then clambered up. It was quite steep and slippery. All of us managed un-assisted though and we then encountered bamboo forest. A lot of them are falling and we have to hike underneath the bamboos which is painful for my sore knees.

                                                        The trail head.

The air was cool and crisp, a much awaited bonus of hiking. It was quite steep but very pleasant trail. It was raining last night, judging from the three landslides that we saw on the way from KKB. The trail was wet, making us quite cautious on the slippery trail. The fresh fallen leaves did not make it easier at all. As usual me the 'au naturel sweeper' was at the back. I had a leech stuck on my ankle but it was soon taken out with a spray of 'Mozziegard'. They made it to the first peak after an hour and I took another 7 minutes. We took a breather there and Chin's watch recorded the altitude at 1130 meters and 22 degrees Celsius. It was cooling and it was windy that day.


                                                   Bella telling Mr.Chin, "It's this way".

                                              Into the bamboo forest.

After a rest we proceeded on to Ulu Semangkok. From here onwards the trail got steeper and harder but the trail was well marked and clear. From the info from blogs, I estimated that we will reach by noon. We hiked down into the valley and up back to the ridge and then down again into another valley and then up again to another ridge. This went on and on without ending. I, at the back was getting really tired and knees was getting from sore to pain. At one clearing we took five and Bella gave me a bottle of 'Revive'. It really revived me a bit and we hiked on.

The sign saying, " Ulu Tranum Forest Reserve ". The same reserve where Pine Tree Hill is, according to some, there is a trail all the way to Gunung Kutu from here.

At 12.30 pm, we came to a deep gorge and at the opposite was another hill with steep slopes. My guess was this is the last slope and the summit is on top of the hill there. Bella went to check it out and Chin followed. Then Lilian went over too but it was foggy and cold then. Altimeter reading was 1280 meters. The peak was rated at 1398 meters. But it was almost 1.00 pm and Chin advised us to return as we want to end our trek before 5.00 pm. What lies ahead is still unsure as no one among us has climbed this peak. Sadly, we disciplined ourselves and turn back. A check later from the web revealed that we were a mere 20 minutes from the 'beirut'. Sigh...................... next trip. 


I will be there again after the Meteor watching trip in Gunong Rajah.




Sunday, March 18, 2012

Gunung Rajah 2 - Bukan main main.





After the 'hoorays' and 'hoohaas' at the peak we finally descended. We started off after 8.00am. As usual me and Lilian was last and we were even slower now as we were tired with muscle sores. Most importantly Farid and Zul was at the 'Rock'. It is the utmost important that everybody made it down safely. I thank them for this. We won't be able to descend safely without them. When we were all finally down, Azmie another hiker whom they called the 'Otai' was gone. They have left, leaving behind even their female companion.






By the time we descended down to 'Bonsai' the female hiker, (sorry I didn't get her name) Farid and Zul was there. By the time we were back at camp, ZHT and Vincent was cooking and packing. Azmie and the 'Otai' has almost completed packing and was waiting for the female hiker. By the time I was back from a bath, they left. ZHT left earlier because he was going to see if Chin LK was still in Lata Naning.

After a meal and packing, me and Lilian, Vincent, Farid and Zul started descending. Since they are the faster hikers, they went first. My muscles were sore and trying to stand up is an effort. Slowly me and Lilian trudged down the slopes and we were alone by ourselves most of the time. By the time we reached Lata Naning, everyone was gone! The place was empty!! No campers, no Farid or the others, just the two of us!!! A storm was looming above and this must have hasten all of them to leave early. I checked the time and it was 2.25pm. Although we were exhausted, we moved out and hiked as fast as we can. Just after 20 minutes after we left, heavy rain poured. In the heavy rain, we trudged and trudged. Finally, we saw the river crossing but we can't cross as the water was too swift. We sat there by the banks and suddenly there was a gush of water coming from the right side. We hurriedly went to higher ground. Only then did I know that at that particular place two rivers met. Water was gushing from the other river and making the existing swift water at the crossing even higher. 







As we sat there, I told Lilian that we might have to spend another night here. She was calm but on her looks, I can see the questions in her mind. " What about my cats at home?", "The house is empty, we might get burgled again", I know this was in her mind. Then she spoke, "You realized that we are the only two persons left in this mountain." She's right actually, we were basically sweeping right from the peak. Other than EZ Paul which made an appearance, then overtook us we are the last two. Her face was sad and she was reluctant to set camp.

Then at 6.30 pm, I saw something on the opposite banks. Something I won't mention here, probably because I was fatiqued and my mind was running wild. I can challenge anything but the sad face of my wife is just hard to take it. I decided to swim across as the level of the water has gone down a bit. I took out my rope and then tied it to a tree and the other end around my breast under the armpits. I saw the worried look on Lilian. I told her if I drifted, pull hard to bring me to the bank. She nodded also very worried. I went further upstream to the place I want to land and went in the water. I swam hard but overshot the target. Luckily my legs can reach the sand and went up the bank.

I shouted for her to take the rope and tie around her waist. She did and I ask her to slowly wade into the river. The backpack was impeding her movements so I told her go back to the bank. Then I ask her to tie the backpack to the rope and I pull it over first. She then asked me, " How are you going to throw me back the other end?" Something I didn't thought about in the midst of the chaos. I asked her to release the rope and coiled it back and went to the narrowest part of the river. It was above the big rock with the markings. I secured one end and threw the other back to her. One by one she tied, I pulled back the backpack and then threw it back to her. Then it was her turn and the rain is getting heavier. If the water level rises again to the former level, she won't be  able to cross. The thought of she's on one side and I am on the other is scary! She tied and  then waded into the river, I pulled with all my might and she was already at the bottom of the rock where I was standing. She didn't have the strength to pull herself up and I too am too drained to pull her up. I ask her to swim (her legs are not touching ground) further down behind the rock. The current there was blocked and so it's easier. She waded there and  "Thank God!" it was shallower there and she came up the bank. At last she said happily, " Lucky you brought a rope ."

The hardest part is behind us now. We took a rest and then slowly, we put on our headlights and slowly hiked out.Our legs are in pain due to the constriction of the shoes due to wetness. Even untying the shoe laces was not helping. We were like walking in circles, maybe because we were tired and our mind running wild. We kept walking and walking. The pain doesn't matter anymore. Every step and every place looked the same. The leaves were shimmering with the rain once our light shone on them. Then we thought we were heading the wrong way and back tracked and then I realized that when we started hiking in, the river was on the left, so naturally to go out, the river must be on the right. We reached the logging trail and took off our shoes and changed into slippers as it was too  painful. We have to changed back into shoes as the slippers can't be used on the muddy trail. The mud gets stuck to the slippers and sucks the slippers out of our foot.

Slowly in the dark with two headlights (thank God! it's still functioning) we trudged and then we saw the 'orang asli' huts. I encouraged Lilian saying it's near already. Near is never near when you are in this situation. I saw some headlights approaching and tried to stop the 4WD  it but it didn't. No matter, we are already beyond the half way point of the logging trail. We reached the pump station and then finding the trail back down is also a problem. We finally found some old streamers tied to a branch and found it. I was too tired and drained to actually trek down the steep slope so I just chute down on my behind.

I checked the time and it was already 1.00 am. We washed our shoes and slippers in the toilet and then went to the car. We didn't prepare dry clothes this time. We didn't cared anyway. We stopped at the Genting Sempah Rest Stop to get some drinks and then straight home.

I was thinking to myself. What if I have drifted away? Nobody knows and those who were hiking  with me, didn't thought of it. Whatever it was, I think you have to be mentally strong and if  you are not confident, only go camping or hiking with people who are more caring. I didn't thought of it.

I am cancelling or asking someone else to take charge of the trip that I have planned as I don't think I can shoulder the responsibility nor I am confident of taking charge of 30 campers. I almost failed even to take care of one person, my wife!

PS/ After calming myself and thought over the whole episode I came to a conclusion,

01.  Always be prepared with any eventualities of nature. Be prepared with 
ropes, 'parang' , extra food etc.

02.  When you prepared clothing for campsite, always wear it for sleeping or around the campsite. Don't be lazy to change back to your hiking clothes. I made the mistake and I was without dry clothes at the river bank. If I were to camp there, I would be really miserable in my wet clothes. It was one of the reason why I did not camp and took the risk of swimming across. Small and petty details can change your decision! Either for good or for worse.

03.  Make sure you also have extra water and dry clothing in the car.

04.  Most importantly! The whole episode won't be as scary as it was if we all stick together. The group was splintered with individuals don't know where or how the others are. Every situation at every  different moment is different. We should start together and leave together.

If I were to stay back with Chin LK in Lata Naning (as I should have done), this would not have happened. The mind was too engrossed with conquering Rajah. All in all, I think I deserved to punished as I was by NATURE!
       



Gunung Rajah

Two scruffy looking climbers at the peak


It started with a New Year's trip with a web based hiking group. I can only made to less than half the journey. It made me wanting to complete the journey in future. So, the day finally came on the 17th March. With a group of ten, including my wife, Lilian and myself,  we rendezvoused at MacDonalds in Genting Sempah at 6.00 am. The last two participants was late and finally we are all at Chamang waterfall's carpark at 8.00 am.

After last minute checking and preparation, we proceeded to the logging track via a steep slope at the back of the Chamang's bathrooms. Since Farid and Zul are the only ones here who have reached the peak before, they took the lead. We took five half way  through the logging trail and another after we reached the trail head (1st checkpoint ). " Aaaah! wonderful my kind of hiking trip, lots of rest ", I thought to myself.



At the trail to the river crossing ( 2nd checkpoint ) Chin LK broke the buckle of his backpack and after a few adjustments, we are off again. Then the other side's buckle broke and he was lugging it on one side, until he can't manage anymore. I used a cord to tie the shoulder pad to the lower strap and it helped. We finally made to the river crossing. Farid and the others are already there. We rested for a while and then proceeded to the next checkpoint, Lata Naning. This is also the location where I stopped during my last hike.

                        Azmie conquering 'Gunong Chinonek' at the end of the logging trail.

By the time we reached Lata Naning, it was already 2.00 pm and Chin has decided that he can't go on. He said he will camp there. I thought that it was OK to camp there and proceed at 2am or 3am in the morning but Farid says we need to camp at 'Kem Hijau', another 90 minutes hike. Farid and Azmie (another hiker with 2 companions) wants to camp in 'Kem Hijau' as Azmie really wants to reach the top. Chin on the other hand says he can't take another step. Chin says he will be OK there and will wait for us. So, sadly we left him in Lata Naning alone but there were many other campers there. 

We moved on to 'Kem Hijau' but actually I was rather tired too. I lagged far behind and met a group of Philipinos on the way. " Hello," I greeted them. "Going to the top, " I added. They replied, " only tomorrow morning, today only to green camp." So, they overtook me and  slowly I trudged on and reached 'Kem Hijau' at 4.30 to 5.00 pm. The Philipino group were there too and Farid, Vincent, Zul, ZHT, Azmie had set up camp. Azmie had a huge tent for 3 persons. There was no good spot so me and Lilian choose any flat spot we can find and started  setting. As this trip was more of a recce trip so I surveyed the area. It can fit all 30 campers that was coming on the 21st April trip but it will be a mad rush for good spots and  it will even be worse if there was other groups.

After setting up camp, me and Lilian went down to the river to wash up and also to get water for cooking. We cooked some instant noodles and had a hot cup of tea. Vincent gave all of us a scare when his gas canister was on fire. He managed to put out the fire, fortunately else Farid's hammock camp will be burn too. ZHT kindly offered the use of his stove if Vincent needed to cook. I was too tired to do anything else so I napped for a while. By the time I woke up, the rest were joking and laughing over the campfire. I joined in and then we decided that we will wake up at 2.30 am and start ascending by 3.00 am. After a session of aimless bantering, we all went to sleep.

The Philipino group was very noisy as they were boozing. I didn't catch any sleep. There were bugs creeping into the tent. At 1.30 am, I decided to give up sleeping and it was all quiet. I was hungry so I boiled some water to make tea. I was gripping my mini torchlight with my teeth and then I got the 'SHOCK' of my life. As the beam was small, it can only focus on my  stove. I sensed there was something coming and I shone the torch to that direction. Then there was this lady with long, dishevelled hair shielding the light from my torch with her hands. My hair was all standing on ends. Luckily she was wearing pink T-shirt, if she was wearing white, I would have fainted! Why on earth was she walking around the campsite without torchlight? And when everybody was asleep. Must be a drunk Philipino.


Rest stop in 'Bonsai'.


At 3.00 am everyone was ready for the trek except Azmie and group as they used hexamine  tablets to cook. Then after 45 minutes delay we started the hike to 'Bonsai'(5th checkpoint). I have told Farid to lookout for me as I am a slow trekker. After every 20 minutes or so Farid  will holler and Lilian will reply. We reached 'Bonsai' at 5.00 am. Good time and Farid says we  can catch sunrise. I was panting like a dog with the fast pace! After 'Bonsai' we moved on. Since they was catching time, me and Lilian was alone in the dark with just two headlights most of  the time. Finally we reached the 'Rock' (6th checkpoint). They were all there.

The hardest part of the trail. Climbing the 'Rock'.

The rock is the biggest obstacle in this hike. We have to abseil a 40 feet rock at almost 90 degrees. There were three parts in the process. The first one was pulling yourself up a wall. There was also water running down the rock. Second was pulling yourself up with the help of roots  and also the rope. Finally the last one is a steep slope like and we have to place our feet carefully and there were others helping out. Finally all reached the top with most looking like us taking a mud bath. 

I told them to hurry if they want to catch the sunrise. Me and Lilian will only slow them down. I can make it there slowly. The plants were different at this altitude and the ground soft. Me and Lilian finally reached the peak at just before 7.00am. We were not cold because of the body heat that was emitting from the overheated machinery. All 9 of us who set out reached the peak. So, I finished a task that was in my mind since January 5th.


All nine reached the peak with the customary stepping on the round shaped rock.


This is the happy side of the story. Read on to the errr....not so happy  side on my next blog.