Parit Buntar Food Trail

Weather was cool as it was drizzling. We were up at 7.00am and had a simple breakfast inclusive in out hotel tariffs. GPS routing went bonkers, so we just hit the road by memory. First destination was towards Nibong Tebal, crossing the Kerian River via Ampangan Jajar.

It wasn't very far from our starting point and we reached there in no time. From the bridge, we can actually view the 3 states, namely Perak which we are standing on and Kedah across the bridge and further downstream is Pulau Pinang. After some snapshots, we rode on towards Nibong Tebal passing through a paper mill.

We reached Nibong Tebal after a short ride and we headed to Chop Chuan Guan biscuits. Lilian wanted to get some snacks here as she was fascinated by the pictures in some blogs. But it was still not open yet! There is still a good hour before it opens. So we decided to go for breakfast again as the one we had was not really filling.

We headed to the parallel road where the famous Nibong Tebal's pork noodles. The place is Teik Kee's Coffee Shop. Locally the noodle is called "tu bak hoon". Alas, when we reach there, they were just unloading the stock and arranging the chairs. Gan saw a place where there were many patrons going in and out of a noodle shop when we were riding past. So, we back tracked to the place and the place in Kg. Sanglang was indeed busy.

So, we ate what the next table ate and also drank what the next table drank! The drink is actually their 'cham ping' which is a mixture of tea and coffee with cream. The noodle which is a bit bland due to the less amount of MSG used in rurals but it was greatly improved with adding pepper and soy sauce which is on the table anyway. I kind of like such foods after exposing myself to too much of heavy tasting food in the city.

By the time we finish our second breakfast of the day, Chop Chuan Guan is already opened. Ironically, this popular place is just directly opposite a casket shop. They are opened for only 2 hours today as it was a Sunday, so there's no on hand preparation of the delicacies. Lilian bought so many that both our bikes had plastic bags hanging on the front bar.

We crossed the motorcycle bridge back to the opposite and set our GPS to Sungai Udang.  There was actually another similar bridge but located elsewhere which leads directly to Kg. Berembang which is nearer but it's OK anyway. The detour was not really far anyway.

Looking at the signboard, it says Seberang Perai so we are in Penang actually. We explored till the end of this road and there was a lively fishing industry thriving  there. We are so impressed with the freshness of the seafood there and more impressive was the public can choose, and haggle directly with the fish mongers here. Right where the seafood is landed on the jetty! The freshness was so tempting but we can't buy , not today!

So tempted to buy! So cheap and so fresh! Must bring a cooler box next trip. All kinds of seafood! The atmosphere here was intense with customers haggling over the prices and rivalry among the fish mongers to sell off their seafood. Next ride will be a homestay and a seafood BBQ with all the fresh seafood bought from here!

After watching in awe at the fish trading here, we rushed back to our hotel to clean up and check out without being penalized. We made it with an hour to spare and Gan went to the maintenance officer for water to clean our bikes , all dirtied with riding in the rain. The guy allowed us to use the fire hose and washing was easy with the high pressure. I already washed all 4 bikes even before the first group was not down from cleaning themselves. When they did, another 2 went up to clean and after that we handed back the keys to the reception and said 'goodbye' to the hotel.

We drove immediately to the riverside for the famed 'assam laksa' and was there at 1.00pm. We were here yesterday and it was also closed already. So, today there was no hard searching for a stall in a discreet alley! They are only open on weekends and starts from 11.30am opens only 3 hours! Sadly! they were finished when we walked in and the lady boss told us, if we want to enjoy it , we have to be there at 11.30am!

No worries, we then drove to Fo Soo Suan Hotel for the beef noodles and...........we met the same fate there. Sold out!

Too Borr Sui

We then decided to head straight for lunch, yes the other 2 was just snacks! Our destination, Law Chang Kee in Nibong Tebal for their famous " Tu Boh Sui " , a boiled octopus appetizer!

The octopus did not disappoint us, it was crunchy and fresh! So were the other dishes, they were really good, especially the deep fried prawns and also the steamed pomfret.

Every table seems to have this towfoo dish!

Now that we done this ride, we just have to link up the dots and plan another more improved ride! Hopefully it doesn't rain then.

A 5 Fishing Village Ride + another 1

The picturesque view of the river in Bagan Tiang.

The plan to ride this far north was mooted a long time ago, in fact even before the Taman Negara Ride. The response was fast and within 2 days, the group was already hatched and to avoid further queries , I moved the event page to a closed group. As this is an expense intensive ride, I asked Siew Yung to be in charge of collection and payment for tickets, hotels, dinner etc.

On the night of departure which was in Sentral KL, a total of 21 riders turned up and there was two who can't make it. Sebastian from Germany who was supposed to be in another coach can now join us in the same coach. Most of us know the coach is cold for night services and so does Sebastian. Sebastian was using Xinme's folding bike and it was not actually his size but it have to do for now.

Journey starts this moment!

The train may be wide but having 21 passengers with 21 folding bikes in the same coach is a bit tough but I have planned to have 4 in every end of each coach but our KTM only has one , yes ONE! coach for the whole night service. The train was punctual though and we arrived in Parit Buntar a little over 4.00am. We disembarked and set up our bikes in no time. I went scouted for a place to have breakfast  and as guided by an attendant there, I found it in no time. When I was returning the security guard asked me about our group and I explained.

We had a simple roti meal and according to my plans, we were to hang around till daylight but most have finished and were on their bikes eagerly waiting for the ride to commence. It was still dark but all of us had lights so, we started off anyway. The route was already mapped onto my GPS and KK's too. So, we all started off in the dark and just about 5 kilometers later, I felt a cold rush of wind hitting my face and I knew we were going to face a heavy shower! At this moment my yes were fixing on the side for shelter. I passed by a few but not really suitable and just when it started raining, I saw a twin detached house with a large varendah like space in front and it was possible to ride straight in. I zoomed in just in the nick of time and everyone followed and I hushed them up so as to not awaken the occupants. It started to rain cats and dogs just as we were getting comfortable. The local did woke up and opened his door to check out. We asked for permission and was granted . He even passed out all his chairs from inside his house to gave us seats.

Sheltering from the rain in a stranger's home.

As we were sheltering here, another splintered group was also sheltering under another village home a few hundred meters back. Just as the rain was reduced to a drizzle, we can see the other pack riding on and we quickly wished the kind village folks goodbye and thanked them and joined the other group. We were all riding in rain attires and I leaded them straight onto the coastal route to Bagan Tiang. The tarmac became smaller and smaller and after a while we can see the coast.

We stopped at a fishing village where colorful fishing boats were moored and had a cam whoring session there. As we were doing that, I noticed Irene's rear tire was deflated. Quickly, we spotted a fishermen shed and we all went under just as the rain was starting to get a bit heavy again. We asked for permission from a fisherman there and started to repair the puncture.

First puncture of the ride!

We moved on after the inner tube was replaced and we rode on a sandy but firm trail. According to the route mapped onto Google map, it was the right route. We passed by many cow sheds and we can see the sea intermittently. Then dwellings became more concentrated and we know we are near Tanjong Piandang already. We rode into the main dwellings of the local fisher folks and rode past their front gates and after a while into the small town. I saw a coffee shop on the way but I was heading to a dim sum place that was mentioned in the internet. It was not hard to locate as it was just beside the bank and we quickly parked our bikes and divided ourselves into two tables. The food here was simple but tasty and it was cheap too! Most famous here was their dumplings and we had lots of them. After settling the bill we rode on and I was still riding on coastal road which as actually a bund beside the sea.

Making a U-turn

Initially, the trail from Tg. Piandang to Kuala Kurau was a sandy trail like before and it was easy to ride. Then we saw a crane lifting a car that swerved into the ditch. The workmen there told the front riders that the trail was impassable as it will be muddy and all of us turned back. We back tracked to the junction and followed the only other route and turn the first right that we meet and that route took us to the famed 'bun pecah' literally traslated as the broken bund. Locals used to stroll here in the evenings to catch the view of the sea. It was in the midst of development as I can see the local municipality was paving the seafront into a real esplanade. It was muddy and many braved the mud not caring about the bikes or shoes. The aim was to get past the hurdle. It was not really that hard actually, just getting dirty but another group splintered and refuse to use the dirty route. I was trapped in the middle as the front pack was too far a head and another pack refusing to get their bikes dirty!

The muddy bund!

I had to proceed and since the trail was not a hard one, I had to leave the rear pack to find their own way to Kuala Kurau leaded by Jotaro. I rushed to catch up with the front pack where many had already crossed the muddy patch. A local fisher folk told us to wash our bikes at the local 'surau' and that we did. One by one, we hosed off the mud from our bikes and shoes. We then carried on and easily, we found the main road to Kuala Kurau which was just a mere 8 km away. We rode leisurely hoping that the rear pack will catch up but we have reach the fringes of Kuala Kurau and they were still not in sight. Kimmie gave them a call and they were another 5 km away. I told the rest to stay put until we regroup again.

Bike washing session!

When we regrouped, I leaded them into the fishing village and Irene needs her 100plus break. Why she never carries a few can really puzzles me. So, we stopped at the first waterhole we see and again the group broke into two groups. I on the other hand was looking for other type of watering hole and seeing that I did not patronize the shop, I went looking for a public toilet. When I returned I saw Lilian chatting with a local and I joined in the conversation. Seems the local was also a cyclist and I forego my meal and chatted up. The locals were actually part of the Kuala Kurau Cycling Club and insistently offered to take us around. They told us not to eat there and will take us to better food eatery but too late! Most of them were already digging in.

Group photo at the salted egg factory with the lady boss.

Later, we went to the salted egg factory as planned but with 2 locals bringing us there, it was different. The lady boss was more eager to show us around and even had a group photo together. After that we pass the famous pedestrian bridge and to the other side where locals dwell. The good food is about to come. Yan, the local cyclist boast of the best coffee and that I want to try. He took us deep into the village and sat us at a coffeeshop  beside the river. 

Suprisingly good coffee and even
 better prawn fritters.

The "HOKASAI " as he called it was served and the coffee was really GOOD! It had a hint of mocha in it and it was less than RM2 a pop. Many had doubles and we also tried the famed prawn fritters of Kuala Kurau. The GPS location from the internet pointed to the other side of the river and I thought it was closed. Only then I realized that it was on this side. The prawn fritters lived up to it's reputation and Yan showed us the local way of eating it. They wrapped the fritter with yellow noodles and dip it into the chilly sauce. It was really good but rolling the fritter with noodles using a gloved hand is a bit tedious. It was good enough without the noodle anyway. By this time, we were all mingling with the locals here and laughter was heard here and there. More suprisingly, the meal was insistently paid for although we adamantly insisted that we pay ourselves. After an exchange of phone number and FB contacts, they leaded us out to the road to Kuala Gula, our next destination.

Full speed ahead to Kuala Gula boat jetty.

I called the boat man to inform of our time and we rode quite feverishly to Kuala Gula as we have spent more time that we have allocated in Kuala Kurau. I decided to skip Kuala Gula fishing village and leaded them straight to the boat jetty which was on the outskirts of Kuala Gula. Making sure none of them were left out and keeping them in a  tight group, I guided them to the jetty where 4 boats were waiting for us. Many made a 'pee stop' and also to get cold drinks before the boat journey starts. Next, will be the Kuala Sangga fishing village which got prominence from an article in a local daily recently when a group of youths were sponsored by the daily to visit there. The place is not a frequently visited place and it's charm is still untouched! The place don't even have electricity and water suppply which is quite suprising in this era of time. The only access to this village is by boat.

We were actually supposed to follow the riverine waterways to our next destination, K. Sangga. Lying beside the Melaka Straits on an island isolated without road system leading to it, it is only aaccessible by boat. The boatman requested permission to use the open sea and I allowed it as the seas are usually calm after a heavy shower.

Riding the waves for about 40 minutes, we reached Kuala Sangga. We hop ashore and I was a bit sad that nothing was done to maintain the charm here. The local fisherfolks were living in poverty to actually maintain it and my guess is, they don't get much help either from the local municipality or the local MP. Many charming houses were left dilapidated and were almost falling into the sea. We strolled from one end to the other and En. Khairul was here already. He was the man that arranged our boat and bus rides. A quick intoduction and we were chatting like buddies. On the way to Kuala Sepetang, he gave me some nature info about the mangroves and birds. He is quite a naturalist for this part of the eco system.

4 boats were chartered to ferry us to Kuala Sangga and then to Kuala Sepetang.

The Happy 8 Resort which also house the
Riverside Restaurant.

We arrived in Kuala Sepetang jetty and while this boats were from Kuala Gula, a local boat seems reluctant to move away so that we can get ashore. Still, he did move away and all 4 boats unloaded the passengers and bikes , one by one. My pad for the night is just next door but me and Siew Yung have to arrange some other lodgings and first, we have to hunt where the place is! En. Khairul gave us a landmark and me and Siew Yung leaded a few to the homestay and hotel while those staying In Happy 8 Resort next to the jettychecked in. Once eveyone is settled in, me and Siew Yung rode back to our hotel to get a good rest after the day's ride.

Dinner is booked for 8.00pm. I make sure everyone was informed. I went to the room, took a long shower and changed a new set of  clothes. Feeling refreshed already, Gan and Fenn invited me for a beer session before dinner. We sat at the balcony of the hotel overlooking the river and with mangroves as the view and had beer, never had beer tasted so nice! We even carried the rest of the beer to the restaurant to continue while having dinner. Here, My favourite was the prawn curry wrapped in bread and I ordered 2 for each table along with many other dishes. We were noisy at dinner time, as usual but it's common for drinkers here, BUT we were not really drinking either, just plain noisy with laughter.

After dinner, we adjourned to our rooms and chatted till we slept..............till the next day where the ride to Taiping begins!

Day 2 of ride., click here.